Dyeing
Work in progress! I'll add more each time I dye another skein and do another experiment :)
This page should have all the information for you to start dyeing your own yarn with acid dye!
Dutch translation is in the works!
If you would like to add something, want to let me know something is unclear or if something is plain wrong, want to leave a tip or just want to share a thought: please leave a comment :D
Things you'll need:
I'm also duty bound to inform you to use a dust mask! Even if it's only a short time between opening up the dye container and dissolving the dye powder, the powder is very fine and can be very harmful when inhaled! Also, the utensils you use for dyeing should only be used for dyeing; any remnants of dye may be toxic, so don't stick those tongs in your salad the next day...
With Landscape dyes, the acid is already added to the pigment, so there is no need to add acid to your dyebath or to the water you soak the yarn in. The only times you will need some extra acid is when dyeing silk or when you want an extra fast strike of the dye (how fast the dye penetrates into the yarn). It might also be useful to add a bit of acid to your soaking water if you want to hand paint the yarn, a faster strike will go a ways to preventing the colours running into each other. Another time to add a little bit of acid (about a teaspoon) is when, even after half an hour simmering, not all the dye has exhausted. The acid will help the last of the dye exhaust.
Amount of dye to use: the directions for Landscape dye state a 100 grams of dye powder will dye 1 kg of yarn to a full shade. This means 2 heaped teaspoons (around 10 grams) will dye a 100 gram skein. Less will yield (generally) a lighter shade and more a darker shade.
Heat setting: the acid dye needs heat to set and bond to the yarn. With kettle dyeing, you simmer (don't bring the pot to a roiling boil, this will cause felting) your yarn in a dyebath for about half an hour, in which time the dye will exhaust into the yarn and set. When hand painting yarn, you can steam it or pop it in the microwave. I'll add more on those methods once I try them :)
General info: unless otherwise stated, I used 100 gram merino wool skeins. The first few experiments will all concern kettle dyeing. I will also hand dye somewhere down the road. Click on the technique title to see examples I dyed.
Please keep in mind that the indicated colours are just that, indications. The exact colour that's going to emerge from your pot depends on many, many different factors, such as your yarn, the water, temperature, acidity..... It's chemistry! An exact science where we have neither the means nor time to be exact ;) So, just have fun and experiment!
SEMI SOLID
MULTI COLOUR KETTLE DYEING
To come: tonal, more kettle dyeing, tie dyed, combination of kettle dyeing and tie dyeing, gradients, hand dyed, speckled.....
Terminology: technically, immersion dyeing is when you prepare a dyebath in the pot then place the yarn in. Kettle dyeing is when you place the yarn in the pot then add the dye. I just call everything kettle dyeing ;)
This page should have all the information for you to start dyeing your own yarn with acid dye!
Dutch translation is in the works!
If you would like to add something, want to let me know something is unclear or if something is plain wrong, want to leave a tip or just want to share a thought: please leave a comment :D
Things you'll need:
- Acid dye (I use Landscape dyes).
- Yarn (or roving or cloth) suitable for acid dye, so protein based fibers, silk or nylon.
- I use digital scales that are accurate to 0,1 gram, but you can guesstimate with measuring spoons; 2 heaped teaspoons equals around 10 grams.
- A cooking pot.
- Some plastic tongs (or something to grab the yarn with).
- Mixing containers.
- Gloves (more protective gear depending on how fond you are of your clothes).
- For hand painting: saran wrap, some paint brushes or other paint appliers and a steamer or microwave safe dish.
Curious what I use? Read about it here.
A list of addresses selling dye related stuff can be found here.
All the Landscape dye colours you can see here.
All the Landscape dye colours you can see here.
With Landscape dyes, the acid is already added to the pigment, so there is no need to add acid to your dyebath or to the water you soak the yarn in. The only times you will need some extra acid is when dyeing silk or when you want an extra fast strike of the dye (how fast the dye penetrates into the yarn). It might also be useful to add a bit of acid to your soaking water if you want to hand paint the yarn, a faster strike will go a ways to preventing the colours running into each other. Another time to add a little bit of acid (about a teaspoon) is when, even after half an hour simmering, not all the dye has exhausted. The acid will help the last of the dye exhaust.
Amount of dye to use: the directions for Landscape dye state a 100 grams of dye powder will dye 1 kg of yarn to a full shade. This means 2 heaped teaspoons (around 10 grams) will dye a 100 gram skein. Less will yield (generally) a lighter shade and more a darker shade.
Heat setting: the acid dye needs heat to set and bond to the yarn. With kettle dyeing, you simmer (don't bring the pot to a roiling boil, this will cause felting) your yarn in a dyebath for about half an hour, in which time the dye will exhaust into the yarn and set. When hand painting yarn, you can steam it or pop it in the microwave. I'll add more on those methods once I try them :)
General info: unless otherwise stated, I used 100 gram merino wool skeins. The first few experiments will all concern kettle dyeing. I will also hand dye somewhere down the road. Click on the technique title to see examples I dyed.
Please keep in mind that the indicated colours are just that, indications. The exact colour that's going to emerge from your pot depends on many, many different factors, such as your yarn, the water, temperature, acidity..... It's chemistry! An exact science where we have neither the means nor time to be exact ;) So, just have fun and experiment!
SEMI SOLID
- Soak the yarn overnight in water (or just an hour or so, if you don't have the time).
- Fill the pot about half way, so not too much water but just enough to cover the yarn. Add more if you want a more even colour.
- Add two teaspoons of dye (which is for a full shade) to a mixing container and add about 100 ml hot water. Shake well to make sure all the powder's dissolved.
- Add the dye concentrate to the pot, give it a little stir and then gently put the yarn in and don't touch it again.
- Turn on the heat, pop on the lid and wait for it to start simmering.
- Then turn the heat low to maintain the temperature, leaving it to simmer with the lid on for about 30 minutes.
- After that time the water should be clear and all the dye exhausted.
MULTI COLOUR KETTLE DYEING
- Soak the yarn overnight in water (or just an hour or so, if you don't have the time).
- Fill the pot about half way, so not too much water but just enough to cover the yarn. Add more if you want a more even colour.
- Gently place the yarn in the pot.
- For two colours: one teaspoon of one colour dye powder and one teaspoon of another. Adding each colour dye powder to it's own mixing container, add around 100 ml hot water to each container. You can use as much colours and as much dye powder as you see fit. Shake well to make sure all the powder's dissolved.
- Carefully add the dye concentrate to the pot, squirting it on the yarn in the places you want it. Do not stir the yarn or the pot, unless you want to really mix the colours.
- Turn on the heat, pop on the lid and wait for it to start simmering.
- Then turn the heat low to maintain the temperature, leaving it to simmer with the lid on for about 30 minutes.
- After that time the water should be clear and all the dye exhausted.
To come: tonal, more kettle dyeing, tie dyed, combination of kettle dyeing and tie dyeing, gradients, hand dyed, speckled.....
Terminology: technically, immersion dyeing is when you prepare a dyebath in the pot then place the yarn in. Kettle dyeing is when you place the yarn in the pot then add the dye. I just call everything kettle dyeing ;)
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